Tactical Response Academy

Service Engine Light - Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval. So what is it telling you when it illuminates? It's simply an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, while on others it measures engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. Your vehicle car manual will tell you if this is the case.

Electrical Fault Light - This light is a bit different in all cars but basically it will look similar to a picture of a car battery. This light will come on each time you start your vehicle, as part of the vehicles designed self-test procedures. The light should turn off after a few moments but if it does not and it stays illuminated, it means your vehicles electrical system is not working properly. The most likely reason is that the vehicles alternator is no longer “charging” the battery due to it being faulty or the drive belt has broken. The light is telling you that the longer you continue driving the vehicle, the less time the vehicle will actually work. The cure to this issue is sadly, usually means to have to install a new alternator or a refurbished one.

Brake Warning Light - Many cars now days have a brake warning light on the dash instrument consol. The purpose is to let you know that there is something wrong in the braking system of your vehicle. This light does not have just one meaning, it may mean that the parking brake is still engaged or that the brake fluid is low. Each company that makes cars has a different use and standard for this light. Your vehicle car manual will give you specific information on your vehicle.

ABS Warning Light - In cars that are equipped with anti-lock braking systems (ABS), there will also be a light on the dashboard cluster. This light will come on each time you start your vehicle and it should turn off after a couple of seconds. If it stays on, flashes, blinks or in any other way draws your attention, pay attention because the ABS computer has diagnosed that there is something wrong with your vehicle. It could be something simple like dust on the sensors or perhaps, something very expensive like replacement of the entire ABS unit. Unfortunately, a blinking ABS light maybe indicating a more serious issue than a steady ABS light and in some situations, it may mean you have no brakes at all.

Coolant Warning Light - If this light comes on and stays on, it means that the coolant level in the reservoir is low and there is a need to add more coolant. It is very important that you turn your vehicle off and let the engine cool before you attempt to open the radiator cap. Remember the radiator is pressurized and if you open when hot, you could be injured by the spraying. Once the engine is cool, add to the coolant to the vehicle. Do not use tap water as it contains mineral deposits that will boil out and the calcium will build up in the radiator and will eventually make it fail.

Oil Warning Light - Most often this light will come on when your oil pressure is low. This could be a serious problem for you if you continue to operate your vehicle with this light on. The reasons for this light coming on could be a failed oil pump, a blocked/bad oil filter, leak in the system or just low oil in the reservoir. Either way, get your vehicle into the service center asap because low oil pressure is a bad thing and could be a very costly item to ignore.

(In economic times like these, everyone needs to make the most of their investments, and your personal vehicle is one of the largest investments you'll ever make.


Danny Lawrence, the assistant chief engine builder and trackside engine department manager for Earnhardt-Childress Racing Engines and the No. 29 Shell-Pennzoil Chevrolet, has more than a little experience working with car engines, both in the shop and at home. He notes that by taking extra steps to help keep your car's engine performing at its best, you can help extend the life of your vehicle.



"Because of my role in building engines at work, it's embarrassing if something is wrong with one of my cars at home," says Lawrence. "I probably have way more cars than I should, but I regularly maintain all of them. The key is the engine. I have a Chevy S-10 truck, a four cylinder vehicle with 223,000 miles on it, and it's still running strong because I take the time to maintain the engine." 


Lawrence points out that many drivers at home lose track of regular maintenance activities, and he recommends keeping a log on your computer, phone, or with notes in your car. 


"Transmission maintenance, a lot of people will forget. Most people won't maintain the belts and fuses on their engines properly," he says. "Antifreeze, oil changes, changing the air filter - these are all things that make a huge difference. Keeping track of what you are doing for your engine helps you keep on top of maintaining your vehicle." 


By following the instructions in the user's guide provided by car manufacturers, says Lawrence, drivers can make sure they are doing everything they need to keep their vehicles in top shape. 


Using the right motor oil is another key to maintaining an engine. 


"Oil is like the lifeblood of the engine," says Lawrence. "It's not only used for lubrication. It cools engine parts, dampens valve springs, cools pistons -- it serves many purposes. Have you ever put a glove on when you're hitting a baseball to take the shock away? Oil does that to valve springs." 


He adds that although many people don't draw the connection, using a high-quality fuel can pay big dividends for a vehicle's engine. 


In particular, using a gasoline that contains a cleaning system to help remove gunk build-up on critical engine parts can make a big difference. This type of gasoline has an active cleaning molecule engineered to seek and destroy performance-robbing carbon deposits - more commonly known as "gunk" - that can be left by lower-quality gasoline's. Having gunk build up on critical engine parts, specifically intake valves and fuel injectors, can cause the inefficient mixing of air and fuel necessary for proper combustion. This can rob your engine of performance. 


Making sure that you are properly maintaining your engine can help your car last longer, says Lawrence. "Nowadays all cars are made well - how long your vehicle lasts comes down to how you maintain and take care of it."

While driving in snow and ice may be an unavoidable part of life for many people, taking a few simple precautions can help drivers stay in control when the weather isn't. According to the experts, following these easy car care tips could save you time and money while helping keep you safe: 

When the roads are covered, make sure you are as well with the proper tires for your vehicle. Winter tires are specifically designed to increase traction in wintry conditions. Install them on all four wheels and avoid mixing tires with different tread patterns and wear.

Make sure your tires have sufficient tread depth. Even if you live in an area with infrequent snow falls, you need to check the tread depth of your tires. Winter usually means more freezing rain, and proper tread depth is critical for providing the necessary traction in the slush. Ask your tire dealer to check the tread depth on all your tires and follow his advice. Tires that are getting worn down should be replaced before winter arrives.

A recent survey found that most drivers have tires that are under inflated. A drop in outside temperature will mean a drop in the air pressure (PSI - pounds per square inch) in your tires. For every 5°C of temperature drop, tire pressure goes down by approximately one pound. Under inflation affects handling and can also cause your tires to wear faster. Check your air pressure monthly and maintain pressure at the vehicle manufacturer's recommended level, found in your owner's manual or inside the doorjamb. 

Check your vehicle's battery, fluid levels, defrosters and wipers to ensure that everything is in working order. Cold weather is especially hard on batteries. Have your battery checked to be sure all connections are clean and tight. Always keep the gas tank at least half-full to prepare for unexpected delays. 

Use a block heater in winter when the temperature drops to -20°C. A block heater keeps your engine oil and coolant warm, which makes the vehicle easier to start and can increase winter fuel economy by as much as 10 percent. (Use a timer to switch on the block heater one or two hours before you plan to drive). 

Visibility is crucial when driving in inclement conditions. Scrape ice and snow from every window and from exterior rear view mirrors. Also, brush snow off the hood, roof, trunk, turn signals, lights and fender walls of your vehicle. 

In case of emergency, stock your vehicle with a first-aid kit, flashlight -make sure your batteries are fully charged, blankets, jumper cables, warm clothes and gloves, food, bottled water, a bag of abrasive material (such as sand, salt or clay-based cat-litter) and a cell phone.

Your battery is the heart of your engine's electrical system and maintaining its health is crucial to keeping your vehicle running smoothly.

Here is what you can do yourself to give your battery proper care in between visits to your local service facility.

Precautions

• Your vehicle's battery creates gases that are potentially explosive. Never smoke near your battery or use a match or other open flame near it


• Keep metal objects, including watches and jewelry, away from your battery terminals - contact could create a spark and ignite the gases


• Battery acid is caustic - use safety goggles and rubber gloves, and avoid contact with your skin, eyes, nose or mouth


• Always make sure your engine is turned off before you check your battery


• Never remove or damage the vent caps


• Make sure the area you are working in is well ventilated

Maintenance and care

• Keep the top of your battery clean and dry


• Make sure that the battery connection cables are tightly fastened to the terminals


• Check for broken connections and frayed or cut cables - these need to be replaced as soon as possible


• Check for any other obvious signs of wear

Cleaning battery corrosion

1. Remove the ground connection first by removing the negative (-) terminal from the post (note: older vehicles may have a positive ground)


2. Remove the positive (+) terminal from the post


3. Scrub any corrosion off the terminals, cables and posts using a stiff brush


4. For tough buildup, use a solution of baking soda and water, taking special care that none gets inside the battery


5. Reconnect the terminals in the reverse order from which you removed them, positive (+) first, then negative (-)


6. Double-check to make sure the connections are tight and secure

 

While your service facility is always the best place for maintaining your vehicle, it never hurts to know how to do a few things on your own.

You can help keep your vehicle's steering system operating properly by checking its power steering fluid at least once per year and topping it off if necessary.

Before you begin

• Be sure to consult your Owner Guide to determine the proper power steering fluid to use


• Start the engine and let it run until the temperature gauge reaches the center of the normal area between H and C

Checking the power steering fluid

1. With the engine idling, turn the steering wheel until it stops left and right several times


2. Turn off the engine


3. Locate the Power Steering Reservoir and wipe it clean with a rag


4. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If it is between the "MIN" and "MAX" lines, you do not need to add fluid


5. If the fluid is below the "MIN" line, remove the cap and add fluid in small amounts until it reaches the proper range - do not fill above the "MAX" line


6. Replace the cap and make sure it is tight

For more detailed information and illustrations on how to check and add power steering fluid, be sure to consult your vehicle's Owner Manual.

 

 

Your engine coolant level should be checked about twice a year. Here's how to top off your engine coolant between trips to the dealership.

Precautions

• Be sure to consult your Owner Guide to determine the proper engine coolant to use - different engine types require different coolants


• Stay away from the radiator fan(s) - they may turn on automatically, even after the vehicle engine is off


• Never remove the reservoir cap or add fluid while the engine is running or hot. Let it cool down first. It's a good idea to wrap a thick cloth around the cap before removing if you're not sure it has had time to fully cool


• Do not use alcohol, methanol, brine or antifreeze

Checking your engine coolant

1. Make sure your engine is off and cool


2. Locate the engine coolant reservoir cap


3. Slowly remove the cap - loosen it first and step back while the pressure releases, then remove it completely


4. If the fluid level in the coolant recovery reservoir is below the cold fill range marked on the side, add a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and distilled water - do not add it directly to the radiator (Note: In an emergency, you can add straight water as long as you have it flushed and replace it with the proper mixture as soon as possible)


5. Replace the cap and tighten it fully


6. Fluid loss can cause major damage to the engine, so visit your local service center as soon as possible for an engine check

For more detailed information and illustrations on how to check and add engine coolant, be sure to consult your Owner Guide.

Your brake fluid should be checked and refilled at least once a year. If you have a little extra time and don't mind rolling up your sleeves, here are a few tips for maintaining your vehicle's proper brake fluid level.

Precautions

• Brake fluid is toxic. Use with caution. Immediately wash any area of your skin that comes into contact with brake fluid


• Never let the reservoir or master cylinder run dry; this could cause brake failure


• Never substitute another fluid for brake fluid. Consult your Owner Guide for the specific fluid recommended for your vehicle


• Stay away from the radiator fan(s) - they may turn on automatically, even after the vehicle engine is off

Checking your brake fluid

1. Make sure the engine is off


2. Locate the brake fluid combined reservoir(s)


3. Clean the side of the reservoir with the fluid level lines and the cap to prevent dirt or water from entering while you service it


4. Visually inspect the fluid level in the side of the combined reservoir(s)


5. If your fluid is below the "MIN" line, open the reservoir cap and add brake fluid until the level reaches the "MAX" line. Do not overfill


6. Contact your local service center to have your brakes inspected by a professional as soon as possible - especially if your fluid level continues to go down or if your fluid is dark

Oil is the lifeblood of your engine so it's extremely important to make sure there is enough to keep your engine properly lubricated. If you have the time and don't mind getting your hands a little dirty, this is a simple operation that can be done at home.

Precautions

• Make sure the vehicle is on level ground


• Make sure your engine is off. Wait a few minutes after turning it off for it to cool and to allow the engine's oil to drain into the oil pan


• Stay away from the radiator fan(s) - they may turn on automatically, even after the vehicle engine is off


• Never fill your oil beyond the "MAX" - too much oil in your engine can be just as bad as too little

Checking your motor oil and topping it off

1. Open the hood and find the engine oil level dipstick


2. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it clean with a rag, then fully insert it and remove it again


3. Look for the highest point on the dipstick that is coated with engine oil. This is your oil level


4. If the oil level is between "MIN" and "MAX," your oil level is fine. Do not add any more


5. If the level is below "MIN," use a funnel to pour in oil. Add enough oil to bring it up between the "MIN" and "MAX" marks, repeating steps 2 and 3 as necessary


6. Replace the dipstick and make sure it is fully secured in place

Whether you have perfect 20/20 vision or need a pretty hefty prescription, chances are you could be making your eyes work harder than necessary. The American Optometric Association (AOA) recommends a few simple things you can do to help prevent eyestrain and increase visibility while you drive.

Tips for better visibility:

• Check your windshield washer fluid frequently to insure adequate supply


• Periodically check your wipers and replace the blades if they are split, leave streaks or skip


• Keep your headlamps clean and in good repair - road grime can reduce visibility


• Wash your mirrors, windshield and windows regularly, both outside and inside


• Adjust side mirrors out to reflect more of the road and as little of the vehicle as possible


• Reduce the brightness of the instrument panel - many people set this overly bright, which forces their eyes to overcome the glare


• Adjust your seat so that you can see comfortably over the wheel


• Glance frequently from the road ahead to your rear view mirror, side mirror, and instrument panel when driving


• Avoid driving at night or in bad weather if you have difficulty seeing in low-light situations

If you wear eyeglasses or sunglasses:

• Make sure they are clean


• Be sure to keep your prescription up to date


• Wear the proper glasses for day and night driving


• Be mindful when using tinted lenses - especially if your windshield is tinted


• Tinted lenses of any kind can reduce visibility at night - never wear them for night driving


• Choose eyeglass or sunglass frames with narrow side (temple) pieces.


• Wide temple pieces may block or distract your peripheral vision

Finally, the AOA recommends regular, comprehensive eye exams to maintain good eye and vision health and to help ensure optimal vision for driving. The eye tests administered at the Department of Motor Vehicles are no substitute for an eye exam from an optometrist.

A flat tire happens to every driver sooner or later.

Knowing what to do in the situation can help you avoid feeling helpless, especially if you don't have a cell phone on you.

Prepare yourself beforehand

If you're reading this, you're already taking an important first step - knowing what to do before you experience a
problem. Here are a few other things to do:

• Familiarize yourself with all the safety and roadside emergency information in your Owner Guide before you hit the road


• Make sure to keep the Roadside Assistance number in your cell phone, wallet or purse and glove box


• Check the pressure in your spare tire every time you check your other tires to make sure that it is also properly inflated

Stop safely

If you get a flat tire while driving, do not slam on your brakes. You should gradually decrease your speed, while
keeping a firm grip on the steering wheel. Then move slowly to a safe place off the road. 


Take a look around at your surroundings. If you do not feel safe, do not hesitate to call the police for help.

Changing the flat tire

1. Park completely off the road on a level surface and as far from traffic as possible


2. Turn on your flashing hazard lights and set your parking brake


3. Place your gearshift in P (Park) or R (Reverse) for manual transmissions and turn the engine off


4. Block the front and back of the wheel located diagonally opposite to the flat to help keep your vehicle from rolling


5. Remove the spare tire, jack and lug wrench from storage


6. Remove the hub cap or center ornament by prying it off with the tapered end of the lug wrench


7. Loosen each wheel lug nut one-half turn counterclockwise, but do not remove them until the wheel is raised off the ground


8. Put the jack in the jack notch next to the door of the tire you are changing, and turn the jack handle clockwise until
   the wheel is high enough off the ground to put the spare on


9. Finish removing the lug nuts with the lug wrench and remove the flat tire


10. Place the spare tire on the wheel hub, making sure the valve stem is facing outward (the valve stem is the nozzle you
    put air in)


11. Reinstall lug nuts until the wheel is snug against the hub. Do not fully tighten the lug nuts until the wheel has
    been lowered


12. Lower the wheel by turning the jack handle counterclockwise


13. Remove the jack and fully tighten the lug nuts beginning at the top of the tire and then alternating every other nut,
    until all are fully tightened


14. Return the flat tire, jack and lug wrench to their proper storage locations


15. Unblock the wheels


16. Stop by your local tire dealership for a replacement tire as soon as possible

For more detailed information and illustrations on how to change your tire, be sure to consult your Owner Guide.

Driving on your spare tire

Always use extra caution while driving on a temporary spare tire. Most are designed for emergency - not extended -
use. Follow these guidelines until you're able to get to your local tire dealership for a replacement:

• Keep your speed under 50 mph - most spares are not designed to handle high speeds


• Remove any excess weight from your vehicle to keep it as light as possible


• Do not tow a trailer


• Do not use tire chains on the end of the vehicle with the spare


• Avoid automatic car washes - your spare does not allow as much clearance as your original tire


• Avoid abrupt steering maneuvers

Here are some great winter driving tips on how you can prepare for Cold-Weather Driving:

It does not matter whether we are heading over the river and through the woods to grandma's house or just hitting the pavement during the daily grind this winter, it is very important that we all prepare for cold-weather driving.

• Kick Vehicle Tires:
  
  
  
  
  • As the outdoor temperatures fluctuate, tire pressure can change. Make sure that your tires are properly inflated; low pressure can increase wear and fuel consumption, but over inflating can reduce traction in slippery conditions. (All ODEC Vehicles' will have a tire gauge available in the Car Kit so you can do a quick check before BTW sessions). It's also important to inspect your tire's tread and replace any balding tires before the roads get slick. (I try to do this on a regular basis but if you have any concerns, please let me know.)
  
  
  
  


• Slow Down for Warm-up:
  
  
  
  
  • Instead of hopping into your cold vehicle and quickly starting and driving away, let your car warm up for about 30-60 seconds to ensure that your motor oil has time to flow properly. (It is a waste of fuel and harmful to the environment to start your vehicle and let it "warm-up" for 10-20 minutes. There is also the risk of theft if you leave the vehicle unattended.)
  
  
  
  


• Windshield Wipers:
  
  
  
  
  • If your windshield wipers are worn down or smearing instead of clearing, it's a good idea to replace them before frost, freezing rain or snow stresses them more. Before winter weather hits, make sure you've got an ice scraper handy to clear off windows. (All ODEC Vehicles will have a pair of gloves, scraper and a can of De-Icer available in the vehicles' Car Kit.) Also do not forget to scrape headlights and taillights, so that other drivers can see you better on the road.
  
  
  
  


• Check the Trunk:
  
  
  
  
  • Prepare ahead of time for unexpected problems that can happen on the road. In your personal vehicle's it is suggested that you have an emergency kit available in case of any problems. (All ODEC Vehicles will have the above mentioned items available in the Car Kit but other items also available will be 1stAid Kits, Flares and/or E-Triangles, all needed fluids (except gas), fire extinguisher, safety vest, tarp, eye wash, sanitizer, paper towels, Windex, spare tire and jack, flashlight with extra batteries and safety goggles or glasses.
  
  
  
  

If we all think ahead and are prepared for winter-weather driving now, we can save ourselves from being left out in the cold this season.

With winter upon us, there is no better time to "Be Car Care Aware" and make sure your vehicle is ready for severe conditions, according to the Car Care Council.

"Motorists need to be proactive and take control of their vehicle's maintenance before the weather gets bad," said Rich White, executive director of the Car Care Council. "That means making sure your car is mechanically sound before the temperature dips and the streets get icy."

Some simple recommendations the following tasks be performed:

• Check the coolant (antifreeze); should be flushed and refilled every two years in most vehicles.


• Change oil every 3,000 miles; consider changing to a "winter weight" oil if you live in a cold climate.


• Check the battery and exhaust system.


• Be certain the heater and defroster are working properly.


• Keep the gas tank at least half full, decreasing the chances of moisture forming in the gas lines and possibly freezing.


• Check tire tread depth and tire pressure; consider special tires if snow and ice are a problem in your area.


• Check to see that lights work and headlights are properly aimed.


• Replace wiper blades every six months; consider special snow blades if the weather dictates.

Have you ever wondered what all that writing on the side of your vehicle's tires meant?

Well both U.S.A. and Canada Federal regulations require tire manufactures' to place standardized information on the sidewall of all tires. This information identifies and describes the fundamental characteristics of the tire and also provides a U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number for safety standard certification and in case of a recall.

Information on "P" type tires:

• P215/65R15 95H is an example of a tire size, load index and speed rating. The definitions of these items are listed below.


• P: Indicates a tire, designated by the Tire and Rim Association (T&RA), that may be used for service on cars, SUV's, minivans and light trucks. NOTE: If your tire size does not begin with a letter this may mean it is designated by ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization) or JATMA (Japan Tire Manufacturing Association.


• 215: Indicates the nominal width of the tire in millimeters from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.


• 65: Indicates the aspect ratio which gives the tire's ratio of height to width.


• R: Indicates a "Radial" type tire.


• 15: Indicates the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to purchase new tires to match the new wheel diameter.


• 95: Indicates the tire's load index. It is an index that relates to how much weight a tire can carry. You may find this information in your Owner's Manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. (Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by federal law.)


• H: Indicates the tire's speed rating. The speed rating denotes the speed at which a tire is designed to be driven for extended periods of time under a standard condition of load and inflation pressure. The tires on your vehicle may operate at different conditions for load and inflation pressure. These speed ratings may need to be adjusted for the difference in conditions. The ratings range from 81 mph to 186 mph.


• Here is a breakdown on Letter rating and Speed rating:

          T= 118 mph          Y= 186 mph

          N= 87 mph            U= 124 mph

          Q= 99 mph            H= 130 mph

          R= 106 mph          V= 149 mph

          S= 112 mph          W= 168 mph

(Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by federal law.)

(Note: For tires with a maximum speed capability over 149 mph, tire manufactures sometimes use the letters ZR. For those with a maximum speed capability over 186 mph, tire manufactures always use the letters ZR.)

• U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number (TIN): This begins with the letters "DOT" and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two numbers or letters are the plant code designating where it was manufactures, the next two are the tire size code and the last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 317 mean the 31stweek of the year 1997. After 2000, the numbers go to four digits. For example, 2501 means the 25thweek of the year 2001.The in between are identification codes used for traceability. This information is used to contact customers if a tire defect requires a recall.


• M+S or M/S means Mud and Snow AT means All Terrain


• AS means All Season

Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used: Indicates the number of plies or the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire tread and sidewall. Tire manufactures also must indicate the ply materials in the tire and the sidewall, which includes steel, nylon, polyester, and others.

Maximum Load: Indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carries by the tire. Refer to the Safety Compliance Certification Label, which is located on the B-Pillar or the edge of the driver's door for the correct tire pressure for your vehicle.

Treadwear, Reaction and Temperature Grades:

• Treadwear: The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one-half times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100.


• Traction: The raction grades, from the highest to the lowest are AA, A, B and C. The grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


• Temperature: The temperature grades are A (the highest), B and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel.


• Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure: Indicates the tire manufacturers' maximum permissible pressure and/or the pressure at which the maximum load can be carried by the tire. This pressure is normally higher than the manufacturers' recommended cold inflation pressure which can be found on the Safety Compliance Certification Label or Tire label which is located on the B-Pillar or the edge of the driver's door. The cold inflation pressure should never be set lower than the recommended pressure on the vehicle label. (Note: The tire suppliers amy have additional markings, notes or warnings such as standard load, radial tubeless, etc.)

Information on "LT" type tires:

• "LT" type tires have some additional information beyond those of the "P" type tires; these differences are:


• LT: Indicates a tire designated by the Tire and Rim Association that is intended for service on light trucks.


• Load Range/Load Inflation: Indicates the tire's load-carrying capabilities and its inflation limits.


• Maximum Load Dual Ib. (kg) at psi (kPa) cold: Indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a dual; defined as four tires on the rear axle (a total of six or more tires on the vehicle).


• Maximum Load Single Ib. (kg) at psi (kPa) cold: Indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as single; defined as two tires (total) on the rear axle.

One day you get into your car, start the engine and move the gear shift from (P) Park to (D) Drive and………nothing happens! The engine speed does not drop off, but there is no movement forward at all.

“Oh No! My Transmission is gone!”

But wait! There are a few simple checks that can be made and symptoms you can evaluate to see whether the Transmission is dead or (fingers crossed), you may be able to get away with a simple service.

1. Try:
   
   
   
   • Putting the car in gear and the car won’t move in any range, forward or backward.
   
   
   
   


2. Look at:
   
   
   
   • Check the Transmission Fluid level. It could be that low. If the fluid level is OK and it still won’t move in any range, you are probably looking at major transmission repairs. But there’s always a possibility that the linkage has become disconnected.
   
   
   
   


3. Try:
   
   
   
   • Put the car into (R) Reverse. If the car moves fine in reverse, but not forward:
   
   
   
   


4. Look at:
   
   
   
   • Try putting the shifter in manual low. If it moves forward now, you probably have a bad one-way clutch in the transmission. That means the transmission has to come apart- that is the bad news. The good news is you may be able to drive the car to the shop by shifting it manually, from manual low, to second and then into drive or overdrive. That’s because the one-way clutch usually only affects transmission operation in first gear, and only when the shifter is in drive. Once you get past first, the rest of the transmission will work OK.
   
   
   
   

If at this point, the car is dead, you will be looking at some expenses to get the car back into operation.

Suggestions:

• Have a good Road-Side Service Plan. I recommend AAA Plus Program.


• If you do not have a reliable service technician, ask around or go on-line to check for reviews and recommendations.


• Always get a bid from the technician before they complete any work on the car. You should only pay for work YOU have approved beforehand

Did you know that the directional signal flashers on your dashboard are designed to provide clues to malfunctions elsewhere on your vehicle? If one of your directional flashers stops flashing or stops making that ticking noise when it flashes, the light isn't necessarily out of order. The manufacturer of your vehicle has cleverly utilized these lights to tell you that a light on the outside of your vehicle is not working.

Using the left flasher on your dashboard as an example, here are what various symptoms indicate:

• If the left flasher on your dashboard stays on without blinking or making a noise, get out of your vehicle and check whether your left directional signal lights are on in the front and the rear. If one is out, simply replace the bulb. After you replace the bulb, the dashboard flasher should work normally again.


• If your left rear directional signal light goes on but does not blink, and your left front directional signal doesn't go on at all, but both your of right directional signal lights are working perfectly, your left front directional signal bulb is bad. After you replace it, the left rear light will start to blink again.


• If all of your directional signal lights are not going on, check the fuse.


• If all of your directional signal lights go on but don't blink, your flasher unit is bad. This unit usually plugs directly into the fuse box, so look for trouble there first. After you replace the bulb or fuse that's defective, the dashboard flashers should go back to normal.


• If both signal lights on one side are not going on, check to see whether the bulbs need replacing. If they don't, the signals may not be grounded properly. Take your vehicle to your mechanic and they should be able to tell you if this is the case.


• If there is no light on your dashboard when you move the directional signal lever, either the bulb on your dash board flasher is out or the unit is malfunctioning.


• If one signal light is flashing faster or slower that the other, check to see whether the bulb is the proper one for your vehicle. A heavy-duty bulb will flash faster than a standard bulb. Also, check for loose connections or corrosion around the socket the bulb fits into.


• Be sure to replace burnt-out bulbs at once. They usually cost very little. Most service stations will replace them for the cost of the bulb.